Preventative Winter Car Care Tips

You know there are preventative maintenance items your daily driver needs, but the exact list of things to look after escapes you. Don’t worry! That’s why we’re here.

We will help walk you through the best winter maintenance tips so you can survive until spring comes ‘round the corner again.

WINTER TIRES

Many of today’s vehicles have either front-wheel-drive or some kind of all-wheel-drive. While both do wonderful things for traction, they cannot break the laws of physics. Sudden ice storms, low visibility, or bad driving by “the other guy” are not necessarily overcome by these drive systems. If you live in an area that’s particularly snowy, and/or are not the most confident winter driver, the number-one driver’s aid is a good set of winter tires.

Note that we don’t call them “snow tires” anymore.

Today’s rubber compounds are designed to provide maximum traction in the coldest temperatures, so it’s not just about the tread pattern.

If you plan to keep your vehicle awhile, consider getting your snow tires mounted on dedicated wheels. Although the initial cost seems high, the ease and expense of making the seasonal switch is greatly reduced. If, on the other hand, you have a leased vehicle, or will likely trade for something else soon, you can purchase tires and accept the trade off of paying a little more for the mounting and balancing every six months.

EXTERIOR CARE

If you haven’t waxed your car’s paint yet this year, now is the time to do it. A fresh coat of wax will protect the paint, not so much from the snow, but from the sand, salt, and other stuff that gets mixed in with it. Second, most experts recommend replacing your wiper blades twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. If you forgot to do it last April, get it done now.

Lastly, with shorter days and longer nights than normal, remember that your exterior lights help you both to see and be seen. A quick walk-around will confirm if any bulbs need replacing. You’d rather do that now than in January when it’s minus 10 degrees with the wind chill.

MECHANICAL SERVICE

Much of what’s needed under the hood falls into the “preventative maintenance” category. You want to take care of things before they fail. Trust us, there is no joy in being stuck at the side of the road, especially when winter’s fury is blasting you.

The DIY items here start with topping up the washer fluid. If you’ve been using a 50/50 mix during the summer, switch to 100% from the bottle. Personally, we always buy solvent in quantities of two, and keep one in the trunk. Oil and filter services should be done, as cold-weather driving is strenuous for the engine.

Check the radiator antifreeze level, as it’s the coolant which delivers interior heat.

Jobs for which you’ll likely need professional assistance include testing said antifreeze for proper temperature protection; testing the battery’s condition to help ensure it’ll get your motor running every time, and giving all under hood systems (belts, hoses, other fluid levels) a once-over.

INTERIOR / PERSONAL CARE

Snow, slush, and salt on your shoes will quickly damage your vehicle’s carpeting. A good set of rubber floor liners will pay for themselves in the protection they provide. Because you can never be too prepared, be sure to carry a snow brush, ice scraper, and personal emergency kit as well. We’re not paranoid, but keeping a blanket, flashlight, portable shovel, and non-perishable snacks tucked into the trunk will make us feel better.

If you take care of only the tires, wiper blades, and fluids, you will still be ahead of most of the driving population in winter preparedness. If you attend to everything on our list, you’re almost guaranteed to make it through the winter unscathed.

Our best advice is to print out this list and use it annually as your winter check sheet.

9 Tire Myths: Fact or Fiction?

People may know a lot about cars but when it comes to tires, it's a big zero. Today we will be busting some myths about tires.

• Myth: Tires should be inflated according to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewall. 
• Fact: Indication on the sidewall is the tire's maximum inflation pressure, not the recommended pressure. Follow inflation pressure recommendations in the Car owner's manual or written on the door post.

• Myth: A tread pattern is required for great traction on dry roads. 
• Fact: A tire without any tread provides the best results dry traction due to the maximum amount of rubber touching the road. A tread pattern, with its groove voids, actually lessens this traction on dry roads. The role of tread is to act as a squeegee in wet conditions and removes water from under the tire and channels it through the grooves for improved wet traction. 

• Myth: Performance tires wear out faster because of the sticky compounds. 
• Fact: Partly true but tread rubber polymers aren't the reason. In fact, advancements like new polymers and ultra-tensile steel constructions make performance tires last longer now. Performance tires average about 45,000 miles in tread life, comparable to the figures for family-car passenger tires. Fast wear is usually due to high speeds and aggressive driving. 

• Myth: Wide tires provide better traction under all weather conditions. Installing oversize snow tires on a car delivers better snow traction. 
• Fact: Completely wrong. Wide tires have a tendency float on deep snow, and the tread lugs are unable to dig through to the road surface and gain traction. Narrow tires provide better traction in snow conditions. Narrow tire cut through the snow easier and provides traction. 

• Myth: All-season tires sufficient for even winter season. 
• Fact: Can be true for certain regions but in places where snow remains on the roads for days winter tires are the best. 

• Myth: Tires should not be rotated from side to side, only front to back. 
• Fact: Radial tires can be crossed from side to side in the rotation pattern unlike the bias ply tires. Regular tire rotation every 6000 to 8000 miles ensures uniform wear for all tires on a vehicle. 

• Myth: New tires should be put on the drive-wheel position to get the most traction. 
• Fact: True only on a rear-drive vehicle. Always, install new tires on the rear axle. Most tire buyers purchase new tires for the drive-wheel position to get the most traction. However, by doing so they transfer most of their traction capabilities from the rear. The vehicle is more prone to over steer. 

• Myth: The government tests tires for traction, temperature resistance, and treadwear and assigns grades molded onto the sidewall. 
• Fact: Uniform Tire Quality Grading is a federal law that makes it mandatory for tire manufacturers to grade their own tires for tread wear, traction, and temperature resistance. Tire manufacturers test tires and assign their own grades and not some government authority. 

• Myth: An undulation on a tire sidewall is supposed to be a weak spot and can lead to tire failure. 
• Fact: An undulation is created where materials overlap each other in the tire carcass, and it actually is the strongest part of the tire.

Winter Driving Tips | Metro Ford Chicago IL

Severe weather can be both frightening and dangerous for automobile travel. Motorists should know the safety rules for dealing with winter road emergencies. We want to remind motorists to be cautious while driving in adverse weather. 

We recommend the following winter driving tips:

• Avoid driving while you’re fatigued. Getting the proper amount of rest before taking on winter weather tasks reduces driving risks.
• Never warm up a vehicle in an enclosed area, such as a garage.
• Make certain your tires are properly inflated.
• Never mix radial tires with other tire types.
• Keep your gas tank at least half full to avoid gas line freeze-up.
• If possible, avoid using your parking brake in cold, rainy and snowy weather.
• Do not use cruise control when driving on any slippery surface (wet, ice, sand).
• Always look and steer where you want to go.
• Use your seat belt every time you get into your vehicle.

Tips for long-distance winter trips:

• Watch weather reports prior to a long-distance drive or before driving in isolated areas. Delay trips when especially bad weather is expected. If you must leave, let others know your route, destination and estimated time of arrival.
• Always make sure your vehicle is in peak operating condition.
• Keep at least half a tank of gasoline in your vehicle at all times.
• Pack a cellular telephone plus blankets, gloves, hats, food, water and any needed medication in your vehicle.
• If you become snow-bound, stay with your vehicle. It provides temporary shelter and makes it easier for rescuers to locate you. Don’t try to walk in a severe storm. It’s easy to lose sight of your vehicle in blowing snow and become lost.
• Don’t over exert yourself if you try to push or dig your vehicle out of the snow.
• Tie a brightly colored cloth to the antenna or place a cloth at the top of a rolled up window to signal distress. At night, keep the dome light on if possible. It only uses a small amount of electricity and will make it easier for rescuers to find you.
• Make sure the exhaust pipe isn’t clogged with snow, ice or mud. A blocked exhaust could cause deadly carbon monoxide gas to leak into the passenger compartment with the engine running.
• Use whatever is available to insulate your body from the cold. This could include floor mats, newspapers or paper maps.
• If possible run the engine and heater just long enough to remove the chill and to conserve gasoline.

Tips for driving in the snow:

• Accelerate and decelerate slowly. Applying the gas slowly to accelerate is the best method for regaining traction and avoiding skids. Don’t try to get moving in a hurry. And take time to slow down for a stoplight. Remember: It takes longer to slow down on icy roads.
• Drive slowly. Everything takes longer on snow-covered roads. Accelerating, stopping, turning – nothing happens as quickly as on dry pavement. Give yourself time to maneuver by driving slowly.
• The normal dry pavement following distance of three to four seconds should be increased to eight to ten seconds. This increased margin of safety will provide the longer distance needed if you have to stop.
• Know your brakes. Whether you have antilock brakes or not, the best way to stop is threshold breaking. Keep the heel of your foot on the floor and use the ball of your foot to apply firm, steady pressure on the brake pedal.
• Don’t stop if you can avoid it. There’s a big difference in the amount of inertia it takes to start moving from a full stop versus how much it takes to get moving while still rolling. If you can slow down enough to keep rolling until a traffic light changes, do it.
• Don’t power up hills. Applying extra gas on snow-covered roads just starts your wheels spinning. Try to get a little inertia going before you reach the hill and let that inertia carry you to the top. As you reach the crest of the hill, reduce your speed and proceed downhill as slowly as possible.
• Don’t stop going up a hill. There’s nothing worse than trying to get moving up a hill on an icy road. Get some inertia going on a flat roadway before you take on the hill.
• Stay home. If you really don’t have to go out, don’t. Even if you can drive well in the snow, not everyone else can. Don’t tempt fate: If you don’t have somewhere you have to be, watch the snow from indoors.

Original post can be viewed here.